Category Archives: Life In Turkey

Film Review: Hidden Turkey

Film Review: Hidden Turkey

Click to buy on Amazon

I recently watched the PBS Documentary, Hidden Turkey.  Hosted by food historian Bruce Kraig, this hour-long program was a fun, informative introduction to Turkey that featured outstanding scenery, off-the-beaten-path exploration and an all-around entertaining hour of programming.

A country with such a rich of history, vast geography and vibrant culture can hardly be summarized in an hour long program, and thankfully, the producers did not attempt to be comprehensive.  Rather they took the time to explore a few aspects of the culture that might not be experienced by the casual traveler.  The film takes viewers to the Black Sea region and spends time exploring the Tea industry and the classic foods of the region, then visits central Anatolia and focuses not so much on the classic touristic spots in Cappidocia, but rather on the food traditions of lifestyles of the people still living in this historic region.   It wraps up by delving  briefly into the religious tapestry that makes up the history of this ancient land.

I learned some interesting facts about Turkey in the film.  Among those are the history of calling the bird that Americans eat on Thanksgiving “Turkey”, the fact that grain was first cultivated in Turkey and the theory that all stuffed pastries and pastas of both Eastern and Western cuisines originate with Turkish dishes made with Yufka.

Whether you’re an established traveler in Turkey, or someone planning a trip to Turkey, I think you’ll find Hidden Turkey to be a fun and informative way to spend an hour.

Figs in Turkey

Figs in Turkey

What do you know about Figs?  Growing up in the Midwest United States, I don’t ever remember seeing a fig before coming to Turkey.  I still remember the first time I ate a fig.  A friend had offered to take me and my American buddies to his home town of Gaziantep, a city about 3 hours to the East of Adana.  As we were taking the scenic route out to Antep, we had pulled off to the side of the road to take pictures and we noticed a man selling some soft green fruit on the side of the road.  Somehow we identified them as figs and decided to try them.  I’d never tasted anything like it before.  This soft fruit was so juicy and thick on the inside.  It tasted outstanding, but I’m not sure if I liked it or not.  If I recall, it was just too foreign to me.  It was like a fruit filled with honey.  They reminded me nothing of Fig Newton cookies that I’d had occasionally growing up.  I’ve come to love this Mediterranean fruit especially dried, which we’re able to eat year round here in Adana.

I was excited to learn a lot about figs from Jason Akers of The Self-Sufficient Gardener podcast.  He had a great episode about growing figs at home which was very informative. I really encourage you to check out his podcast about figs.  In this podcast, he provided a ton of great info about the history of the fig tree.  One thing I learned is that the fig tree plays a significant role in every world religion, and even big tree that was the religious center in the movie Avatar was modeled after a fig tree.  Obviously in the Bible, we learn that fig leaves are large enough to cover our private parts when shame first entered the world through the sin of Adam and Eve.

My Failing Fig Tree

Jason’s podcast contains many other great facts and antidotes about figs along with instruction in how to care for fig trees.  I was interested to learn the even in a climate like Minnesota, it’d be possible to grow Fig trees by simple pruning them and protecting the plants from the cold over the winter.

I’ve tried growing figs on my balcony, but haven’t had any success with my fig tree.  It just grows a few bunches of leaves and one fig.  Then the leaves get brown and the birds eat the fig before it ripens.  Booo..

Figs from Tulumba

If you haven’t tried figs, I encourage you to get out and try some dried figs, and if you happen to see them fresh at a farmer’s market or grocery store this summer, do try them out.  They’re like nothing you’ve ever eaten before.  For readers in the United States, you can find a great deal on dried figs at Tulumba.com.

This is how we enjoy them most here in Adana.

Dried Figs, Walnuts and Tahini pictured with my lame Fig tree

Heat up the dried figs (both sides) on a hot frying pan.  Just warm them up, don’t cook them, then dip them in tahini (Sesame butter) and eat it with walnuts.  It’s a great and healthy snack… it only ceases to be healthy when you can’t stop eating them.

 

Visit the Yüreğir Çarşısı

Visit the Yüreğir Çarşısı

This post is a part of my “Things to Do in Adana” series.  You can purchase my book 27 Things to do in Adana and see a list of all the posts in this series at http://www.adanaadventures.com/book/.  This week, I say, go to the Yüreğir Çarşısı.  (Çarşı =central shopping area)

Yüreğir is the district of Adana west of the Seyhan River.  The Hilton, the Optimum Outlet Mall, Çükarova University are notable landmarks in Yüreğir.

My Dad and I at the Yuregir Carsisi

The reason I want to suggest going to The Yüreğir Çarşısı this week is because spring has sprung, and from what I can tell, this is an area that specializes in Agricultural stuff. This is where I go if I want  to look for stuff for my balcony garden and the garden I’ll be planting at our summer house.

I went there with some friends the other night and we experienced what we might call a yin and yang night in Adana.  We spent about an hour walking through the Yüreğir Çarşısı, a very traditional part of the city, and then spent an hour in Adana Optimum Outlet; the most modern corner of Adana.  Very different, but both very distinctly Adana.

So Why would you go there and what might you expect to find?  Here are my top ten reasons to go to Yüreğir Çarşısı:

  1. To experience the crowed Çarşı experience on a much smaller scale than downtown Adana
  2. To buy vegetable, fruit trees or herb seedlings
  3. To buy garden tools
  4. To buy seeds or bulbs to direct so in pots or gardens
  5. To practice your Turkish with the vendors
  6. To go to the big fruit and veggie bazaar.  It’s there every day, so if it’s not bazaar day in your neighborhood, you can go there to get fruits and veggies at bazaar prices.
  7. To take a walk across the stone bridge without having to park in the super busy Downtown Adana.
  8. To take pictures
  9. To buy a kerosene lamp.  (I’ve seen them there, and if I ever need one, I know where to get it)
  10. To buy birdseed.

I bought a kilo of oninos and green onions to plant plus a bag of bird seed for 5TL. All of the seedlings above were purchased for 10TL. Can you guess identify them?

How to do it:  The Hilton is one of the most prominent landmarks in the city.  Go to the Hilton and find parking near there.  If you want to make it super easy, just park in the Hilton’s paid parking lot.  Imagine that you’re walking out the front door of the Hilton: the Yüreğir Çarşısı is across the road and to the right a bit (South.)  Walk across the road and start exploring. Another way to think of it is basically right across from the Yüreğir side of the stone bridge.

You’ll see a crowded street with vendors on both sides of the road, and lined up along the side of the road are hundreds and hundreds of seedlings for vegetable, flower and herb plants, that are ready to sow in a pot on your balcony or in your yard.  Walk down that road until you come to a big vegetable bazaar and that’s the end of it.  There you have it, the real Çarşı experience without getting lost or walking around aimlessly for 4 hours.  Pretty awesome.  Now if you cross the road and go toward the stone bridge, you’ll see some green houses down by the river.  It’s a great place to buy a fruit tree.  I bought a fig tree there years ago that’s still growing on my balcony.  Check out the stone bridge while you’re at it.

The Permanant Vegetable Bazaar at the end

Easy Homemade Macaroni and Cheese

Homemade Macaroni and Cheese

Made in Adana

When I first came to Turkey back in 2003, I read a few “things to bring to Turkey” lists.  Most of the lists said to bring the “cheese” packets from Kraft Mac & Cheese.  Well, I can’t imagine what they put in those  “Cheese” packets, but I’m sure that eating real food is going to taste better and be much better for us and the kids.  So I’d like to humbly suggest that before coming to Turkey, one should learn a good Macaroni and Cheese recipe, rather than bring packets.

This week’s Made in Adana recipe, which comes from page 159 of the “Help I’m in Turkey Cookbook” is just that; a simple and delicious recipe for homemade Macaroni and Cheese that can be made with ingredients found easily in Turkey.

Step 1: Start to boil one bag of macaroni (500 g)  or twist noodles.

Step 2: Make the Cheese sauce –

  • Melt 3 Tbsp Butter in a saucepan
  • Stir 2 Tbsp flour, a dash of pepper and ½ t salt into the melted butter
  • Bring to a boil, then add 2 cups of milk – cook and stir until it’s thick and bubbly – then cook and stir for 2 more minutes
  • Add 2 cups of cubed Kaşar cheese and stir until it’s all melted

Step 3: Combine — by this time the pasta should pretty much be done.  Drain the pasta, add the cheese sauce and serve.

There you have it!  Homemade Macaroni and Cheese – Easy! Without the box!

Mia liked it as is.

I added a bit of chopped up basil and parsley from the balcony and had it with a salad. It was wonderful.

Made in Adana: is a collection of recipes posted every Wednesday for wonderful foods that can be made with ingredients purchased right here in Adana (or anywhere in Turkey.) Most recipes are from the “Help I’m In Turkey Cookbook” which I hope to have for sale here soon.

Hitchhiking Hookers in the newspaper (part 2)

If you haven’t read what I wrote yesterday, do check it out here.  As today’s post is really part two.

Last Saturday we bought a newspaper and were sitting down to read the local news section and noticed  a picture of a skanky woman standing on the side of the road.  The other picture featured police talking to truck drivers. Based on the knowledge discussed in my last blog entry, I guessed that the topic of the story would be something like “Truck driver arrested for hiring roadside prostitute.”

Instead the content of the story was basically this:

“The Mersin police are distributing brochures to truck drivers on the area highways warning that women hitchhiking on the road are often con artists and will try to steal your money.  In the last year 155 truck drivers have reported having things stolen from their vehicles, and it’s probably even more because people are usually ashamed to report it. “

So no, the message from the police isn’t “hiring prostitutes is immoral, illegal, dangerous and enslaves women and children around the world.”  The message is “be careful, those girls might steal your money.”

After 7 years in Turkey, it’s still very hard for me to believe that I live in a country where prostitution is legal and socially acceptable.

Here’s one version of the article in Turkish if you’re interested

Hitchhiker or Roadside Prostitute?

Do you pick up hitch hikers? Have you ever wanted to pick up a hitchhiker?  I used to pick up hitchhikers quite often in Minnesota and honestly I always had good experiences with them. You know, I’d pick someone up, we’d share some life, listen to each others’ stories, feel like great buddies and then part ways.  Sometimes I’d even have an opportunity to help them out or whatever.  Well, living in Turkey, I always thought it’d be the same.

When I was new in Turkey, I’d be traveling to Antakya to see my in-laws on weekends and we’d sometimes see people who looked like they needed a ride; often standing under a freeway overpass trying to flag down someone for a ride.  Strangely they were usually young women, but whatever.  I’d notice them from my bus window or from a crowded car and think “If I ever have a chance to give a hitchhiker in Turkey a ride, I’ll do it.*”

One day a couple years into my time in Turkey, my wife Rana and had finally bought a car.  We were traveling to Antakya just the two of us, and sure enough we passed under an overpass and saw a stranded, (attractive female,) traveler on the side of the road and buzzed by.

Rana said “did you see that?”

I was like “Yea, do you think we should try to turn around and give her a ride? Her car probably broke down.”

Rana said “Are you Crazy?  That’s a prostitute!”

“Shut up, you’ve got to be kidding me.” I said and remained unconvinced.

Well, I’ve become convinced over the years as I have seen numerous semi trucks pulled off to the side of the freeway with women getting in or getting out, and it’s been increasingly obvious that those “stranded travelers” are usually young women in miniskirts and always seem to stand under the same overpasses.

So the lesson of the day is to be careful when picking up strangers on the freeway in Turkey.  There’s more to this story that I’ll share tomorrow.  Stay tuned.

*no pun intended

Outing to Kapikaya Canyon

This post is a part of my “Things to Do in Adana” series.  You can purchase my book 27 Things to do in Adana and see a list of all the posts in this series at http://www.adanaadventures.com/book/.

If you’ve lived in Adana for any length of time, you’ve grown callous to the high buildings, the dirty air, the Adana drivers, the crowded neighborhoods and the noisy streets. It’s easy to forget that relief from the city exists less than an hour away.  Kapikaya Canyon in Karaisali is one of the places that revives my spirit after it’s been beat up by life in the city.  I was there recently with friends and was reminded anew about the reasons that Kapikaya Canon is my favorite place in Adana.

  • It’s less than an hour away
  • It’s relatively clean with very little litter.
  • It features the grandeur of God’s creation in a way that can’t help but leave an impact.
  • It allows great access to the beauty and majesty of nature without much danger and a trail that’s safe for children, or people who are not avid outdoors people.
  • It’s nearly impossible to get lost and the roads are pretty good.
  • It’s beautiful in all seasons.
  • Everyone I’ve ever brought there has loved it as much as I have.

Now I want to add that the pictures here do not give the canyon justice.  The skys were very overcast on our recent visit and there were no leaves on the trees, making everything dull and gray.  In person it was beautiful in a rugged way, but as I told my friends, this is the ugliest you’ll ever see it.  See previous posts here and here.

What: A huge canyon with hiking trail running along the side of the river.  It’s an easy to moderate hike and can be adapted to many ages and fitness levels (my wife went there when she was way pregnant, and we’ve been there with our toddlers).  There’s a great place that’s about a 40 minute hike where people can make a fire and have a picnic.  Presumably one could hike at least 3 hours into the canyon.

Where: Getting to Kapikaya Canyon couldn’t be easier.  It takes about an hour to get there from Adana.

  • Get on Turgut Ozal Blvd going north out of Adana.
  • Go past the convention center and drive out of town
  • Follow the signs to Karaisali.  The road curves around a lot, but if you stay on the main road, it’ll lead you there.
  • When you get to the end of the road, there will be a “T” in Karaisali.  Take a left.
  • Continue driving through the country until you come to an old arched bridge going over a river, look to the right as you go over the bridge — that’s the canyon.  Park your car and cross back.  Walk in on the East side of the river.

Get the Map

Who: This is an excursion for anyone who is longing for a connection to the outdoors.  One does not have to be an avid outdoorsman to do this, but people should be careful.  There are cliffs.

This has been a 52 Things to do in Adana post.  Check back weekly to find a new opportunity to get out and experience Adana.  I’ll post one a week until we have 52.

** note that the pictures don’t do this place justice.  It was really overcast and it made for pretty lame photos.

"Spectacular Overnight Slaw"

The cabbage heads here in Adana grow to be about 3 times bigger than a head of cabbage in Minnesota (bigger than a basketball, smaller than a beach ball).  Whenever I see cabbage, I wish I knew more ways to consume it, being it’s so bountiful here in Adana.  Thus the first in the “Made in Adana” series is a cabbage recipe.

I’ve never been a fan of Coleslaw, but this recipe for “Spectacular Overnight Slaw” (Page 145) was outstanding.

Here’s my adapted recipe.

Spectacular Overnight Slaw

Combine the following in a huge bowl:

  • ½ of a huge “Adana sized” head of cabbage, chopped pretty finely
  • 1 medium red onion, halved and sliced thinly
  • 2 sweet red peppers, 2 green peppers chopped up
  • ½ cup of sliced, pitted black olives *

Combine the following in a sauce pan and bring to a boil, stir it on the heat for one minute.

  • ½ cup Red wine vinegar*
  • 1/3 cup vegetable oil (yuck)*
  • 1/3 cup sugar*
  • 1T of brown mustard
  • 1t salt
  • ½ t celery salt*

Pour the dressing over the vegetables and stir it in well.  Cover it and leave it in the fridge overnight.

This recipe was good for lunch the next day, it was even better for dinner (after sitting almost a day).  I’m proud that the neighbors and even our cleaning lady liked it.

Cole Slaw ready to serve

How do you use cabbage? Please let us know in the comments.

Check back tomorrow to hear about the “Made in Adana” concept.

* adaptations made: the recipe actually called for stuffed olives, white wine vinegar, ½ cup of oil, ½ cup of sugar and celery seed.  I thought that much oil and sugar was overkill, I was right.  This was just right.

A Turkish Haircut

Check out the flaming stick in this guys hand

Check out the flaming stick in this guy's hand

I’ve had too many great experiences in the Turkish barber to recount here, but suffice it to say, I love the whole experience.  It’s one of the great cultural experiences that I always try to take my foreign guests with me to experience.

This New Zealander loves Turkish haircuts so much that he made a whole website about it.  You should really check it out.  It’s good fun.  Here’s the link.

A first time for everything; a visit to Araç Servis Muayenehane


Today I had to take our car in to be inspected at the gov’t checkup facility. It’s supposed to be a pretty simple procedure, but the wait is what kills you. We were told to expect 2-4 hours. I was ready for the wait… But not for the abuse. I arrived at 11:00 am.

So I pull up into the parking area where cars wait to enter and a guy automatically ran up to me like he worked there and started aggressively trying to do everything for me. He of course acted like he was trying to help me as a foreigner. Looking back, I realize that he just went and got a ticket (like at gov’t offices or banks) from the security guard. At this point, they start playing with the tickets and giving me a smaller one like they’re doing me this huge favor, he drags me around and tries to speak English and will not let me go. He’s acting helpful, but honestly I just wanted to wait in line like everyone else. But at this point, I still kinda think the guy works there. So he takes me inside to look at the number being served and they say it’ll be about an hour and a half. So I go back to the car to listen to a podcast. At this point he starts badgering me for money. “You’re gonna give this guy 20YTL (15$) after it’s all finished.” I said “For what? What is he gonna do for me?” “If there’s a problem, he’ll fix it.” “Don’t worry, I don’t need any help, and there’s no problems. Just leave me alone, I’m not paying anything.” At this point, the mood changes “OOOOOh he don’t wanna pay” (this is all in Turkish by the way). “Than give me the ticket back.” I’m like “listen, I didn’t ask for any help, and I’m not paying for any help.” Imagine that conversation going on and on for 20 minutes… That’s what the next 15 minutes of my life consisted of. Finally I said that if they can get me in and out in half hour, I’d pay the money. The second guy said “40 minutes and it’s a deal”. We shook hands and I said again, If I’m not done by Noon, I’m not paying any money.” “Okay! Okay” they yell at me “it’s a deal” they said and gave me a ticket with a smaller number.

I wait, finally at 11:45 I go inside and wait for my number to come up. It doesn’t come up until 12:30, at which they process my paperwork and tell me to wait longer. I wait until 1:00 pm. Sweet, I pay nothing, I thought.

When it’s time to bring my car into the real waiting area is when the situation got hot. They start telling me to give the money, yelling. I’m like “listen, we had a deal, I’m not paying unless I finish before noon. It’s 1:00 and it’s still not done. The guy who first ‘greeted’ me starts shouting “give me my money! I paid money for that ticket, and now you’re going to pay me” (obviously a lie.) I walk to my car and he follows me getting more and more aggressive. I continue to repeat “we had a deal, now be a man and honor the deal.” At this point, the guys is yelling at me through the car window and telling me to “give me my money!” He’s also positioned in such a way that I can’t just drive away.

This is where I start to feel even more helpless, because it’s so obvious that they have people inside who they work with, and if I don’t pay, they probably have the power to make me fail my examination. I’m getting really frustrated. Finally I said “how do you sleep at night?! Is this how you earn a living, by annoying people until they pay you.” At this point, the guy looks like he’s about to get violent. I gave him the 20YTl and he said “finally you give me my money.” I said “no, I’m not giving you YOUR money, you’re stealing MY money.” Then he said in English “F&*K YOU,” then Turkish ” Siktir git” (translated go f*%k yourself) I’ve never had those words spoken to me in Turkish or English. I guess there’s a first time for everything. I drove into the waiting area, helpless to do anything else.

Most of the time, I love living in Turkey, but I do hate being taken advantage of because I’m a foreigner. I finished my inspection at about 2:30 pm, stressed and angry. That’s a bad way to start a week.