Tag Archives: ethnic food

Figs in Turkey

Figs in Turkey

What do you know about Figs?  Growing up in the Midwest United States, I don’t ever remember seeing a fig before coming to Turkey.  I still remember the first time I ate a fig.  A friend had offered to take me and my American buddies to his home town of Gaziantep, a city about 3 hours to the East of Adana.  As we were taking the scenic route out to Antep, we had pulled off to the side of the road to take pictures and we noticed a man selling some soft green fruit on the side of the road.  Somehow we identified them as figs and decided to try them.  I’d never tasted anything like it before.  This soft fruit was so juicy and thick on the inside.  It tasted outstanding, but I’m not sure if I liked it or not.  If I recall, it was just too foreign to me.  It was like a fruit filled with honey.  They reminded me nothing of Fig Newton cookies that I’d had occasionally growing up.  I’ve come to love this Mediterranean fruit especially dried, which we’re able to eat year round here in Adana.

I was excited to learn a lot about figs from Jason Akers of The Self-Sufficient Gardener podcast.  He had a great episode about growing figs at home which was very informative. I really encourage you to check out his podcast about figs.  In this podcast, he provided a ton of great info about the history of the fig tree.  One thing I learned is that the fig tree plays a significant role in every world religion, and even big tree that was the religious center in the movie Avatar was modeled after a fig tree.  Obviously in the Bible, we learn that fig leaves are large enough to cover our private parts when shame first entered the world through the sin of Adam and Eve.

My Failing Fig Tree

Jason’s podcast contains many other great facts and antidotes about figs along with instruction in how to care for fig trees.  I was interested to learn the even in a climate like Minnesota, it’d be possible to grow Fig trees by simple pruning them and protecting the plants from the cold over the winter.

I’ve tried growing figs on my balcony, but haven’t had any success with my fig tree.  It just grows a few bunches of leaves and one fig.  Then the leaves get brown and the birds eat the fig before it ripens.  Booo..

Figs from Tulumba

If you haven’t tried figs, I encourage you to get out and try some dried figs, and if you happen to see them fresh at a farmer’s market or grocery store this summer, do try them out.  They’re like nothing you’ve ever eaten before.  For readers in the United States, you can find a great deal on dried figs at Tulumba.com.

This is how we enjoy them most here in Adana.

Dried Figs, Walnuts and Tahini pictured with my lame Fig tree

Heat up the dried figs (both sides) on a hot frying pan.  Just warm them up, don’t cook them, then dip them in tahini (Sesame butter) and eat it with walnuts.  It’s a great and healthy snack… it only ceases to be healthy when you can’t stop eating them.

 

Balıkcı İbrahim – Istanbul Balıkçısı – A great place for Fish in Adana

Istanbul Balıkçısı Adana

Restaurant Recommendation

If you read yesterday’s 52 Things to do in Adana article about having fish, you’re probably asking yourself;  “ok, now where should I go to have that fish?” I knew you’d ask.  I plan to do some restaurant recommendations* here as I get a chance and there’s no better time than now to start.

We’ve been going to Balıkcı İbrahim – Istanbul Balıkçısı in Gazipasa whenever we have a craving for fish for the past 4 years.  We love going there and only wish we could go more often.  It’s clean, you can see right into the kitchen,  the food is great.  Unfortunately there is no alcohol served there, so it’s a good place for lunch. (Rakı goes great with fish.) Click here for a map.  It’s in the Gazi Paşa area near Burger King and Mado. Go down the street across from Mado alongside the school, and it’s 3/4 of a block up on your left.  You can’t miss it.

You can read all about Eating fish in Adana in yesterday’s post.  I’ll just give some pictures here to go with my recommendation.

*note that all restaurants featured here are ones that I recommend; or those for which I’d give a positive review.

Eat a Fish – Things to do in Adana

Eat a Fish

This post is a part of my “Things to Do in Adana” series.  You can purchase my book 27 Things to do in Adana and see a list of all the posts in this series at http://www.adanaadventures.com/book/.

If you’re from the Midwest  United States, as I am, the idea of having fish involves eating a fillet of fish that has been removed from the fish’s body with all of the skin removed. It may be fresh caught, it may be store bought. It may be battered and fried, it may be baked or grilled, but it looks like a chunk of meat.  With my upbringing, the idea of a whole fish being de-scaled and deep fried or grilled whole seemed totally foreign when I first came to Turkey (this may not be the case if you are from the coasts… I don’t know.)

*Attempting* to catch fish near my home town of Mora Minnesota

When I had first moved to Adana and a friend had offered to take us out for fish, the last thing I imagined was a plate with a whole fish on it.   Frankly it was quite intimidating, and may I say disgusting.  After digging in with an open mind though, I really enjoyed the fish and have come to love eating fish in Adana.

Even after “going out for fish” with friends a few times though, I was still a bit intimidated about ordering fish for myself because it seemed there were endless choices of fish on ice and I’d always feared ordering something that would be too expensive or that I wouldn’t know how to eat.  This week’s edition of 52 Things to do in Adana aims to dissolve some of the mystery and make it easy to go out and order fish for yourself.

Outside a typical fish restaurant. A bit intimidating.

How to Order: If you are going out for fish, you’re going to want to stick with one of the standard species of fish.  In Adana those are Çupra (Gılt-Head Bream) and Levrek (Sea Bass).  Ordering these are surprisingly straightforward as I’ve learned.  Here are your options   You’ll want to ask for small (kuçuk) medium (orta boy) or large (buyuk).  You have two options for preparation; deep fried (kizartmiş) or grilled (izgara). (see summary below)

So ordering will be as simple as saying “Orta Boy Çupra.  Kizartmiş” which is what I recommend and which is pictured here.

Fish options

Çupra (Gılt-Head Bream)Levrek (Sea Bass)
Size Options Small  (kuçuk)

Medium (orta boy)

Large  (buyuk)

Preparation Styles Deep fried (kizartmiş)Grilled (izgara).

Side Dishes: Some of the common side dishes are tossed salad (salata), arugula salad (roka salatsı) and fries (cips).  They all go great with fresh fish.

Where to Go: If you’re eating fish in Adana, I recommend Balıkcı İbrahim – Istanbul Balıkçısı which I’ll be reviewing here tomorrow.

How To Eat It: Now comes eating it.  The big question what parts of the fish to eat and how?  This is the tricky part, but it’s not too tricky after all.  If the fish is prepared properly, the meat should pull away from the bones quite easily.  Just run your knife across the top of the top of the fish and remove the top bones, and then peel that top fillet away from the fish and dig in.  You should be able to do that without getting many bones, although you should always be careful.  You should try eating the skin.  It’s really tasty, although not for everyone. Just give it a try.  After you’ve eaten that side, flip over the fish and repeat.  At this point you’ll have a pile of bones and a fish head and a satisfied tummy.  Some people will encourage you at this point to tear the head apart and get at the little pieces of meat in the cheeks.  That’s fine, but not necessary for beginners.  It’s a bit intimidating at first but after you’ve done this a few times, you’ll be totally comfortable ordering fish in Adana, and if you’re like me, you’ll love it.


Pictured above (Levrek left, Çupra right)

52 Things to do in Adana is a weekly collection of experiences you can have to experience Adana to its fullest.

Menemen – Made in Adana

Menemen – Made in Adana

This Wednesday’s Made in Adana recipe is from page 96 of The I Need Help in Turkey Cook Book. Menemen is classic Turkish recipe that is one of my favorites for a simple and healthy breakfast.  I haven’t made it in quite some time, but this morning’s breakfast was so good, I might just make this again tomorrow morning.

Just a reminder that Made in Adana is a series of weekly blog posts featuring recipes from The I Need Help in Turkey Cook Book. This book has helped us to live a an un-deprived life while shopping from the Turkish markets.  I hope that these recipes encourage you to that end.

Here’s the recipe — adapted to the foods in our fridge.

Step 1: Chop up one leek, one medium onion and one red or green pepper.  Fry them in 2 T butter until tender.

Step 2: While the veggies are cooking, dice a medium tomato and beat 5 eggs with a bit of salt.

After the veggies have softened, add the tomato, salt and pepper, and a bit of red pepper flakes ( acı biber).

Step 3: When the tomatoes have been in the pan for a minute or two, pour the eggs over the entire mixture and reduce the heat.  Simmer over low heat until the eggs are almost firm.  Add ½ cup shredded kaşar cheese.  Let the cheese melt and the eggs cook completely.  Serve immediately.

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Ordering food at a Turkish Kebap Restaurant (Kebapçi)

Kebabci in Adana

Can you order off of the red sign? Keep reading.

Ordering at a Kebapçi in Turkey

Adana Food Guide

If you want to truly experience Turkish food, the first place to do that is at a Kebapci.  This is a place that specializes in meats cooked over the coals.  This is where you’ll get to try the classic Adana Kebap, or Chicken kebaps, and many other classic Turkish entrées.  Ordering at a Turkish grilled meat restaurant can be a bit confusing though because there’s rarely a menu.  It’s assumed that if you’re here, you know what you’re looking for.  Hopefully this quick guide will help you to sort out the important stuff.  My hope is that after reading this article, you could walk into the restaurant pictured here and order confidently off of the red sign on the wall.

Each restaurant of this style is going to offer variations of a basic menu.  I want to focus on the basics and help you to order confidently within the core of the menu.

Basic Menu

Adana Kebab (a.k.a. Kıyma ) – Grilled Minced Meat

Tavuk Şiş (a.k.a. Piliç Şiş) – Chicken grilled on skewers

Çop Şiş (a.k.a.  Kuş Başı) – Tender bite-size lamb chunks grilled on skewers

Kanat – Chicken Wings grilled on skewers

Ciğer (pronounced “jee-air”) – bits of liver grilled on skewers

Beyti – Adana Kebap with Garlic

Visit Ciğerçi Bedo’s website to see pictures.

Kebap will generally be served with a spread of salads and fresh veggies, usually included in the price of the food. The size and variety will vary by restaurant, but it compliments the meat quite well.  Especially the onion salads.

A few things to note: If you mention “Kebap” in Turkey, people will assume you’re asking for “Adana Kebap.” To be real clear -  in America, Shish Kebabs refer to random meats and veggies cooked over a grill on skewers; in Adana, “Kebap” = “Adana Kebap”.   Secondly, you should usually specify 1 or 1-1/2 portion by saying “bir (1) porsion” or “bir buçuk (1-1/2) porsion.”  1-1/2 portion will obviously be 50% more expensive and 50% more food it’s good to clarify what you want.   A final good thing to know is that “Şiş” (shish) is Turkish for skewer.

Here’s a fuller description of the products listed above.

Adana Kebap (a.k.a. Kıyma ) – This is the classic Adana food.  Its spiced ground lamb meat packed around a wide skewer. It’s fatty in a good way and flavorful but not too spicy.  You can request it spicier by asking for it “Acılı”, or if you’re concerned that it might be too spicy, you can designate “Acısız” or totally without spicy peppers.  It’s served on thin bread.   You may hear it referred to as “Kıyma” which is just Turkish for ground meat.

Beyti – Is a variation on Adana Kebap that just has garlic in it.  This is my preferred style.  To order this, just say “Adana Kebap, Beyti olsun”.

Tavuk Şiş – is just a skewer with chicken chunks grilled over the coals.  This is the closest to what an American pictures when they think “Shish Kebab”. If one of your companions says “I don’t eat lamb”, this is basically their only option.  Too bad for them.

Çop Şiş (a.k.a.  Kuş Başı) – This is pretty self explanitory.  It’s just good cuts of meat, sliced into small pieces and grilled on skewers.  Simple and tasty.

Kanat – This is a bit more complex, but everyone should try it.  They just grill a chicken wings on a skewer and they’re usually spiced pretty well.  They’re not easy to eat, but it’s a great way to enjoy wings.

Ciğer – This is liver bits grilled on a skewer.  Here’s what I’ll  say about this.  It’s really good.  They sprinkle Cumin on it, and it tastes great.  That said, I’d only get Ciğer at a place specializing in it that’s been recommended (by a local).  It can be served on 10 skewers or on 5 skewers, the only difference is the size of the chunks.  If I have it on 5 skewers, the liver taste is just too overpowering.  I recommend trying it at a place that serves the smaller chunks.

Read about more Adana  foods in the Adana Food Guide